11 November 2005

Christmas bracelet photo 1


Christmas bracelet 1 Posted by Picasa

This bracelet isn't perfect, but it's growing on me every time I look at it. I did the majority of the work on it when I was about 20 pounds (1 stone 6 pounds) heavier, so it's a teeny bit loose on me, but I can live with it.
The reason the bit of red cotton (peeking from around the "corner") is on the first charm (unseen partridge) is because when I had them loose in a baggie I had to find a way to distinguish between the partridge and the turtledove. I had meant to remove the cotton, but that's grown on me as well.
I'm going to make another bracelet like this one as a gift, but in gold instead of silver. I have to find the right chain for it though. That's being a bit of a pain to find, since it's got to match the charms - which are in a specific antique gold finish.
But I'm sure I'll find it when I least expect it.
Oops, got to go.
Bye for now.

Christmas bracelet photo 2


Christmas bracelet 2 Posted by Picasa

Notes for bracelet photos are in the next/latest post (depending upon when this is read).
I would feel bady that I haven't updated in over a week, but last week was a bit fraught. So I decided to take matters into my own hands and do what needed to be done. All my journals (all 4 of them) suffered. So be it.
But, I managed to take pictures yesterday of the things that I promised to last week. . .
The three pictures are divided into three entries (this one and the two after it), but I just can't get the picasa/hello thingy to send all pictures at the same time even though I'm following the instructions. Never mind. This entry has the sweater bits that I've done so far, and the ones after have the Christmas charm bracelet photos.



kimono sweater knitting Posted by Picasa


The reason the two knitted bits are different shades is because the finished front (on a straight needle) is in a specially finished mulberry silk yarn (Texere Arctic), and the started one (on the circular needle) is in a Chinese silk bourette yarn (Chinese Number 2) - yes, I am knitting that one from three cones - the yarn is a different thickness as well and it's the only way to make it work.
I am thinking about space dying the sweater when it's finished to try and make it a bit more cohesive. But I'll have to see WHEN it's finished - I JUST might unravel everything and start again.

02 November 2005

Some projects on hold - reasons at the end of the entry. . .

Project work as it stands:

Another crochet bead bracelet completed (Bracelet of silver-lined transparent
purple size 9 beads).

Knitting started on surprise gift. Details cannot be given yet as I don't know
if this journal is being read by recipient of gift.

Knitting continuing on sweater and shawl, although the sweater was recently
ripped back 15 rows because of an unnoticed mistake. Sweater knitting was
continued after calming therapy of chocolate eating.

Photographs of sweater-in-progress will be taken at the same time as the
christmas charm bracelet.

Knitting (small amount) done on sock (toe up Socks (first one started) in Regia
nation "Rainbow" sock wool on size 2.5mm DP needles.

Fillgap braiding continuing by increments.

All other projects on hold as I'm trying to remember WHY I started most of
them - especially the old fillgap ones.

Once I remember, I'll start work on the ones most urgently needed to be
completed in the list. *snicker* Urgently needed . . . yeah.

Bought two balls of acrylic baby wool today - one pink and one pale yellow. Work
on baby stuff (for hospital) begins after Christmas.

Bye for now.

31 October 2005

Weekend Work

I've completed the Christmas charm bracelet. It's not really to my satisfaction,
but it's the best I can get with the chain I've used. I wanted a big link chain,
so I have to accept the limitations that come with certain things like that.
Photos later in the week when I've used up the cone of silk yarn I'm halfway
through (I want to use it as a "stand" for the bracelet).

Done lots of knitting on:

1) Kimono sweater and done about a third of one front - this is really due to
the fact I'm not a big fan of knitting stockinette because of the dullness of
the repetition. I love the fabric produced, so I'll put up with the boredom.

2) Prayer shawl and I have finally knitted over half of it *cheers*. The fabric
produced with the elongated moss/seed stitch is lovely, but it too, with my
dislike of repetition, is knitting hell.

The things I do to produce things I like. *grin*

Worked on raven fillgap braid and got frustrated due to being too damn tired to
realize that I only jump three threads. Had to back track 4 times in two days.
Will not work on braid when tired again. But I'm over halfway done.

Bye for now.

27 October 2005

And just because I don't have enough knitting projects . . .

I have started yet another:

A kimono sweater in DK weight mulberry silk yarn (bleached).

The pattern came from the Crystal Palace yarns website (www.straw.com), off
their free patterns section.

Luckily, it's a simple design, with no real fitting required.

I guess my fidget gene was too bored.

Bye for now.

26 October 2005

Plans for the Prayer Shawl. . .

I purchased 4 spools of 3mm ribbon yesterday in colours that are in the prayer shawl I'm working on - or colours as close as I can get to ones that are in the shawl - the self striping yarn that's being used graduates through a lot of colourways and shadings from pale cream to a medium dark brown to an an odd olive green to an odd dark grey (I can't decide if it's a warm grey or a cool one) and all inbetween, so I'm not too worried. The plan is to thread it through the shawl as accent lines and use it also as part of the fringe.
You see, the knitting pattern I've used leaves behind regularly spaced holes along the length of the shawl.
The pattern is an elongated (3 stitch) Moss(UK)/ Seed(US) stitch.
I'm hoping the ribbon will look nice. I'll do a test next week. There's half the shawl to complete, so I've plenty of time to decide if it will work.
Bye for now.

Clear silver-lined size 15 bead crochet rope bracelet Posted by Picasa

Well, at least I remembered this photo eventually. Unfortunately the silver lining in the beads causes microscopic glare, so the colour isn't quite right. You can't have everything.

Bye for now.

Raven pendant fillgap braid. Posted by Picasa


I finished writing yesterday's entry and after I sent it off, I knew there were terms at the end about the christmas charm bracelet that were wrong -
1) it is a toggle clasp that I used.
2) the chain is a loose rope chain. Same construction as a standard rope chain, but with bigger links-because of thicker wire.
*sigh* I knew all this when I made it in the first place, and to forget it while writing frustrated me.
I am still working on good photos for the "bracelet on bead loom in mid-project". I'll get it up as soon as I can. The problem is that the beads are reflecting too much and I can't get good photos of the pattern - it is very subtle, but I think it is really very pretty. I'll keep trying.

24 October 2005

Weekend workings

Life is fun. I'm busy and I like it.

I worked on completing a pair of socks (I dragged them out of the "knitting in
mid-project" basket) - but I didn't quite manage doing any knitting on them at
all, because of a cross stitch project that decided it wanted me to work on it -
"The Magpies on Oak and Honeysuckle" - mainly because I see it every day because
it leans on a dresser in my bedroom.

You might think that's a recipe for disaster, but this dresser is in a corner
near the window and I have to negotiate some boxes to get to it, therefore the
project is very safe - safer than if it were stored behind the couch. But even
having said I worked on it, I only got a few stitches done before my back
decided to complain. Though I suppose that's a few less stitches to do, isn't
it?

I also worked on yet another couple of beaded bracelets - the "Bracelet of matte
transparent red size 11 beads - red cotton cord in center for support due to
unexpected stretchyness of crochet" and "Bracelet of silver-lined transparent
purple size 9 beads". They're both in a state of almost finished, but the first
one needs the cord knotting securely and stitching shut before I can finish
closing the beads and the second one I need to find a needle that will both hold
the thick thread AND go through the beads, as I've closed the bracelet, but I
now am at the stage of needing to put the thread through the other beads and
knot it a couple times so it doesn't come undone. That's not as easy as it
sounds with the thread I've used. I'll figure it out. But this does mean that
there are less projects left to complete and the projects left to work on are
more prevelent.

Then the prayer shawl I've been working on, I moved on to another ball of wool.
I'm now on the 5th ball of wool with only another 4 or 5 balls to go. I'll
really know once I'm halfway through this ball. This shawl is going to an aunt
in California and I hope she likes it.

I've reached a point with the "raven pendant fillgap braid" that if necessary, I
can put fittings on it and use it, but I've threads left on the bobbins (lengths
unknown), so any more length I get out of it is a bonus. I initially cut the
skeins of black floss into thirds, and then I didn't know if I'd be able to make
the braid long enough. I have been trying to take photos of it, but the darn
thing is just a bit too thin to get good detail on it. I've tried to do a
focussed shot and blow it up, but it becomes too pixillated. It's frustrating to
say the least. I'm going to try a few shots of it outdoors in the next couple of
days and see what I can get. *cross fingers* I also decided to check if the
pendant would fit on the braid - the pendant has a very small split ring on it
for hanging. Luckily the braid will work, although it will be tight.

Then I decided to work on a jewellry project I had to abandon due to illness.
It's a charm bracelet of the "12 days of christmas" illustrated in charm form.
I've got the chain and closing(a circle and bar with spiral accents) set up and
6 of the charms attached, but the chain is an interlinked chain that doesn't
give me a lot of leeway with regards to spacing the charms. Anyway, I'll update
in a couple days with more info -type of chain and other things- then I'll post
photos of it once it's finished.

Bye for now.

21 October 2005

Forgot to mention this in the entry yesterday. . .

That in the photo of the knitting (Prayer shawl), you can see a purple plastic
box with a heart catch.

That's my SMALL portable craft box. I keep two crochet projects and two lucet
projects in it.
The only reason I have it is because it was in a 50% sale at a motorway service
station (and it was the last one).

Next entry on Monday.

Bye for now

20 October 2005

Then, I did some fillgap braiding on my Raven pendant cord, crocheted some of the ripped bracelet - which is comeing out nicely now. and sewed up this:

a bracelet of matte transparent deep purple size 12 delicas.

That's all.

Posted by Picasa
Not much done today. I knitted a few rows on this:


Prayer shawl in limbo Colour "timber" on 4.5mm circular needles
Posted by Picasa

19 October 2005

Night crafting and the "muse"

The craft deity is fickle and cruel yet pleasant.

She can be both a very stern taskmistress and lax - She holds a full goose wing
as a whip.

But my version of her is sometimes. . .strange.

A few nights ago, though I needed a full night's sleep, I could not rest until I
had completed, to a stage, the closing of a crochet bracelet. I knew it could
wait another day - a week - a month - a year. It didn't have the power of
locomotion, yet there was I, at 4:30am, wielding thread and needle sewing beads.

She was stroking me with the seductive and calming down feathers, yet
threatening me with the old strong primaries that sting and burn. . . I could
tell.

These writings are not tinged with the madness of sleep deprivation. No.

In the past, I've gone without sleep for nothing more than completing a section
of beading on a necklace - for practice, in order to learn a new technique. And
I wanted to.

She is quaintly quixotic, is my goddess. And I don't even know her name.

Oh, just to finish the "day", once morning came and I had the free time to work
on that bracelet, it wasn't important to her anymore.

She can be a real Bitch sometimes.

Bye for now.

The making of a fillgap braid, Saleris style

The picture below is of me holding a working fillgap braid.

All my own handiwork, from setting up the paper templates for a polygon on Corel
Draw, pasting them onto cardboard and cutting out the shape (in the picture
below, an octagon), then cutting out the centre hole and the slots with an
exacto knife.

I cut out rectangles for cardboard bobbins and wind them with the yarn, cotton
floss, silk or rayon thread I'm going to make the braid with.

I get an empty film canister and put in some coppers (pennies and 2p pieces) and
use thread scraps off old braids to make loops to attach them to the growing
braids. When I need to, I go to film developing shops and ask for empty film
canisters - I get a bag of them for free.

Finally, I choose some of those wound bobbins, I bind together the threads at
one end to begin my braiding and push the loop through the middle hole and
attach the weighted film canister. I then put the threads in the slots and start
braiding.

If I'm lucky and get the right cardboard for the bobbins, the noise of them
bouncing off each other as I move threads from slot to gap is akin to bamboo
chimes.

I like doing fillgap braiding.

Bye for now.


A fillgap braid. More explanation in the next entry. Posted by Picasa

18 October 2005

Irregular crochet bracelet

I've just had to rip (undo) 9/10ths of a crochet bracelet - I was wondering why
I couldn't sew it together correctly, and had also decided the bracelet was too
big. So I frogged (ripped) back a bit, and discovered I'd not crocheted it
properly to begin with. The rows were staggered - they didn't "step" around
properly.

Crochet rope should flow from one stitch to the next - on this one, I'd go back
half a row from the end, and it would drop a bead. I thought it was a bead
variation until I'd frogged back 10 rows and it still did it. Silly me. Silly
bracelet.

VERY strange crochet.

As I post this, I'm still wondering WHY it took me all this time (2 days) to
notice that!

AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well, at least THIS time I'll crochet it properly.

Bye for now

17 October 2005

Beading and a review of Denise Knitting needles

Ah, I had a nice weekend. Reading, knitting, beading and braiding. I have been
trying to finish a crochet bracelet by sewing it up, a bracelet in silver-lined
clear size 15 beads
, but I got sidetracked before the second attempt.

You see, even though I've been doing off-loom beadwork for over a decade, I've
never sewn up/joined up a crochet rope bracelet on the first try - the pattern
created by the crocheting needs to be followed through on the join so it becomes
as invisible as possible. This bracelet requires the small 4X inset on my
clip-to-the-desk magnifying glass to sew it up, which makes it a bit more
challenging than normal.

Then I had second, third and fourth attempts on Saturday night and Sunday
morning. I think the gremlins were gathering around this bracelet. Got quite a
bit p***ed off, especially since one of the attempts caused me to have to
re-crochet one end of it - which, if to honest, wasn't that bad - I tightened
that end up a bit. I did finally sew it together on Sunday night. Photo tomorrow
or Wednesday night.

But, enhearted by my eventual success, I started on finishing/sewing up another
crochet rope bracelet. This one still needs use of the magnifying glass, but I
can use the big section. Darn those fiddly threads. *G*.

On another subject,

I've been thinking for a while about getting some interchangeable needles, but
the only two companies I knew did them were Boye and Denise. I found the Denise
website and finally caught some people talking about them both. I decided to get
the Denise set as I found out the needles in the Boye set - as much as I like
the quality of their STEEL crochet hooks - are made from aluminium and you screw
the cables onto them.

So, by luck, these same people said they got theirs from a real store with a
website:

The Wooly Workshop. (www.woolyworkshop.co.uk)

I went to their website, liked the price, printed off an order form (with a bit
of faffing around), and mail ordered some Denise interchangeable knitting
needles a couple weeks ago. I got them in the post last week.

I can't say I was impressed with them initially. From the reviews and praises I
read, I expected something really spiffy and pretty. They're not. I opened them
up and thought I'd been done. They look like cheap plastic (which they are NOT).

Like the picky size fiend I am, I got out my brass caliper and measured them
all. They are not all evenly divided into whole millimetres and fractions of
millimeters (regardless of ANY website saying they are) like regular knitting
needle sizings, but they are sized so if you use them as a SET, you'll make good
garments.

(Some of the pairs are evenly measured as whole and fractions of millimeters
(e.g. 3.75, 4, 4.5. . .), just not ALL of them).

So today, I bit the bullet and transferred one of the prayer shawls onto the
size 4.5mm needles made up with two cables into an circular needle and used them
for a while. I started examining them and while knitting, changed over a cable
or two so the shawl would fit better on them (so there wasn't so much extra
cable) - the circular needle measures 78.5cm from tip to tip now - and I lost
track of time whilst knitting as it was comfy.

I really like them.

I REALLY like the Denise needle set. I had a good look at them and noticed a few
things.

1) they've got little holes in the neck of the cables so you can put a paperclip
or home-made handle in and easily twist them that way when needed - which is
good for my arthritic flare-ups.

2) The needles and cables fit together nicely. Not really snug, but they also
have a little give in them, so you sort of forget about them. I tend to find
that other types of circular knitting needles are not particularly giving, so
the edges and backs of my hands start to ache after knitting for a while
. These needles are really pleasant to work with.

3) They don't get warm like they say, but they do stop being cold very quickly.
That's good.

4) The cables are equal to the thickness of the smallest needles. That's nice as
it means the knitting slips fairly easily from the cables to the needles with no
"snagging" or jamming like you can get with the cable/needle joinings of some
other companies.

5) The needles are a bit rough, but they do smooth out quickly with use. I don't
know if they'll eventually end up with a finish like glass, but right now
they're a tiny bit "sticky". That's good for me. I don't like feeling as if the
knitting is going to slip off the needles when I least expect it. I don't mind
the slight decrease in knitting speed it causes as I'm not a fast knitter
anyway.

Right now, since there's only one cable of each length in the kit (6 different
lengths), I can't see using the set like regular paired knitting needles.
There's no freedom in that regard for picky little me, plus, since there's only
two extender bits, there's a limited scope for the amount of circular knitting
needles I can make.

So, I am planning on ordering one more of each cable length and 2 more extender
bits (each extender comes with two end buttons - another feature I really
like.).

I do like the set. It's comfortable. It's not the greatest quality, but it works
very well for what you get. I will say that if it had cost more, I would have
sent it back. (I paid a bit over 33 pounds for mine including Packaging &
Postage).

The set is made in the US and I'm glad I didn't persuade myself to order it from
over there - it NOW costs about $50 not including P&P - but when I ordered mine, the
set cost about $70. The recent US price decrease annoys me a tiny bit, but I have the
kit and I'm happy.

I think that's enough talking about it. I've got things to do.

Bye for now.

15 October 2005

A correction on a past post, photo update and an announcement

In my quest for good photographs, I discovered I had made a mistake on the
description of the beads in the loomwork - I said they were:

"Flat loomed bracelet in matte transparent clear and AB transparent light grey
size 12 beads"

Well, the beads actually are AB matte transparent clear and clear size 11 beads.

Eek. trust me to get it wrong when retrieving details from memory. (it's par for
the course, really.) *G*.

Anyway, some good photos have been taken. Not great ones, really, but I'll take
what I can get right now. Rotating and cropping have yet to be done, and that
will take about a week. Normally it would take a day, but I've an exam in less
than a week, so my concentration is getting a little frayed. . . Maybe I'll take
a few more photos after the exam. I'll see when I start tweaking the ones I've
taken.

Yes, I know, it seems strange taking photos now, but it's an activity that makes
me calm and relaxed.

And yes, by doing this, it indicates that I've found a way to include photos in
this journal/blog. No, I'll call this a journal as I prefer that word. Blog
sounds. . .transient.

Oh, and this is one of the very rare weekend entries I'm going to do. I've
decided that weekends are for preparation and relaxation, so unless I've been
extra busy and creative and I've just GOT to tell the world, there'll be no
entries on the weekend from now on.

Bye for now.

14 October 2005

How to do Fillgap braiding

I thought I'd better give a slight lesson on Fillgap braiding since I mention it
so much.

it's a braiding method adapted from straw plaiting and corn dollie making.

What you start out with is an flat cardboard polygonal shape with a minimum of 8 sides
and a hole in the middle.

How ever large or small your piece of cardboard is, you must have a hole in the middle,
whether it's square, round, small or half the cardboard, you've got to have
that hole - it's how your braid develops.

Anyway - you start with an flat cardboard polygon - for an example, I'll use an
octagon (8 sides).

Cut slots in the middle of each side - 8 sides, 8 slots. They don't need to be
very deep - you're using them to hold a thread or piece of yarn in.

You then cut 7 LONG pieces of yarn or embroidery floss. Why not a thread for
every slot?

Well, it's the reason this is called "fillgap" braiding. You leave a slot free
so you can "fill the gap".

Take your 7 pieces of yarn or floss or whatever thickish thread you want to use
and gather them together evenly at one end. Put an over hand knot about 1" (2 -3
cm) from the end.

Stuff this knot through the hole, and taking the LONG ends, but nearish to the
knot, snug in one piece of thread in one slot. You'll end up having a slot
free - a gap.

Pull down on the long ends of the threads so the knot comes up level in the
middle of the hole and the threads hang free off the edges but secure in the
slots.

Gather the threads in your hand so the cardboard sits on your fist/thumb edge
with the threads underneath the cardboard but running through your fist AND with
the gap facing you.

Now, counting anti-clockwise from the gap, pull up out of it's slot (and your
hand) the 3rd thread from underneath the edge of the disc

(gently put the thumb of the hand you grab the thread with on top of the disc
near the edge - you can move the thread out easier)

- you'll be moving this thread over 2 other threads - and put it in the
previously empty slot.

Pick up the cardboard, turn it so the slot is facing you, gather up the threads
again and counting anti-clockwise from the new empty slot, pick up the 3rd
thread and pull it out of it's slot and put it in the empty slot.

Keep repeating this thread movement - count 3 threads anti-clockwise from the
gap and move this thread into the empty gap.

And frequently pull downwards on the knot underneath the hole as that's your
braid forming underneath. You also need to keep all the threads taut beacuse the braid forms nicely this way. I know, it's fiddly - but it makes the braid nice.

If you're using LONG threads, you can wind them on cardboard bobbins to keep
them from tangling - and this way you can hold the edge of the disc. It gives
you more freedom to move the disc around.

If you want a way to stop having to pull down on the knot/braid, then find an
old plastic film canister with a snap lid on it - remember those? fill it with a
bit of copper change (about four or five 2p pieces work nicely) and attach a
doubled knotted thread in an overhand loop to the inside edge of the lid before
it's snapped on.

To make an overhand loop, you: put out your first and second fingers of one hand and drape a section of the
loop/circle over them with the rest of the loop held in your other hand. Holding
the loop/circle slightly taut in one hand, Dip/drop those fingers over the rest
of the loop (one finger next to one thread) so your first and second fingers
each have a loop on them. put the tips of your first and second fingers together
and wiggle those two loops down your fingers and together. If you're careful
you'll find you now have an overhand adjustible loop in your fingers.

Take the other end of the loop, and making another overhand loop, put that on
the end of your developing braid above the knot (if you put it below the knot,
it'll slip off the braid.). You can then carefully move this weight up the braid
gradually as it's being formed.

The numbering method I use on some of my fillgap braids - like 10/4 or 14/4?

Well, that's the number of threads, movement and thread counted from the gap -

for the 10/4 one, there's 10 threads on an 11 sided cardboard "disc", and I
count anti-clockwise 4 threads from the gap.

If I had written 7\3 it would mean I'd had 7 threads in an 8 sided "disc" and
counting clockwise, I'd moved the 3rd thread into the gap.

There are a couple rules you use making these braids. it gets slightly
complicated. Not terribly, but they're important. The braids don't work if you
ignore them.

So, for any fillgap braid:

1) you can't have a thread number that divides into the number of threads - e.g.
if you have 10 threads, you can't move the 1st, 2nd or 5th thread from the gap.
This is because you will end up moving the same threads over and over from gap
to gap and you will NOT form a braid.

2) You can't have a thread number that divides into the number of sides on the
disc - if you have a 9 sided disc, you can't move the 1st, 3rd or 6th thread
from the gap. You'll be doing the same thing as in rule one - and you won't be
forming a nice braid.

3) You can't move a thread into the gap that is half the number of spaces (5th
thread in an 10 sided disc) or greater than half the total number of threads
(8th thread in an 15 thread braid) - because you'd either be moving one thread
back and forth from one gap to another (e.g. moving the 7th thread in a 14 sided
fillgap), or you'd be working continuously backwards (e.g moving the 9th thread
counting anti-clockwise in an 15 thread braid is really moving the 7th thread
from the gap counting clockwise).

So, as an example, using a 10 sided disc with 9 threads, you can't move the 1st,
2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th or 9th thread. this is because 1 divides into 9 and
10. 2 divides into 10. 3 divides into 9, 5 divides into 10 and 6, 7, 8 and 9 are
greater than half the number of threads.

So a 10 sided disc can only have a workable braid of 9/4(moving anti-clockwise)
or 9\4(moving clockwise).

Anyway, that's working a fillgap braid.

When you run out of thread, you can whip stitch the ends (a good sewing book
from the library will tell you how to do that), or do another knot and cut the
loose ends evenly to make a little tassel.

If you decide to try it, have fun -

but remember to keep notes of exactly what you've used and done for each braid

(the number, colours and type of threads and the placement of each thread on the
disc and which thread you've moved and what direction)

- because you might want to repeat that nice looking braid you make OR, you
might want to note what DOESN'T work.

Bye for now.